The tour meets at 12.00 midday at Hiroshima station. We transfer by bullet train to Nakatsu in Kyushu and then from Nakatsu we travel 30 minutes by private hire vehicle to Yabakei, where we stay the night in the surroundings of a delightful onsen inn.

Yabakei is known for its picturesque valleys, verdant forests, sparkling streams and , of course, its many onsen thermal hot springs.

After checking in, we have time to immerse ourselves in the onsen baths. Refreshed, we enjoy a sumptuous welcoming banquet.

MEALS INCLUDED TODAY: D

For those awake early enough, a dip in the onsen baths is a great way to start the day. Breakfast is followed by a short vehicle transfer to Usa Jingu, one of Japan’s grandest shrines. It is also one of the most important as it serves as the head shrine deifying Hachiman, the protector god of the nation. Usa Jingu was also instrumental in the development of the distinctively different Buddhism found on the neighbouring Kunisaki Peninsula.

From here we transfer to the impressive Kumano Magaibutsu. The largest Buddha relief carvings in Japan, they are little-known outside of the immediate region. Perhaps the short but steep climb through a deep forest to see them precludes visits by many. The effort, though, is well worth it.

Nearby is Makiodo, a rather basic temple building that has become a treasure house of Buddhist relics saved from some of the temples that have, over the centuries, fallen into ruin on Kunisaki. A gentle stroll from here takes us through Tashibu-no-sho, a charming village with some of the most picturesque countryside found in Japan. Along the way we come across stone and wooden Buddhist statues perched in caves overlooking farmland scenery that seems to have changed little since Kunisaki’s origins as a Buddhist centre some 1,200 years ago.

We end the day at a Japanese inn set in a delightful rural hamlet and adjacent to Fuki-ji, a temple that includes one of the simplest and most beautiful Buddhist structures in Japan.

Once again, our inn has onsen baths to relax in before dinner, a feast of local produce. We stay here for two nights

MEALS INCLUDED TODAY: B, L, D

Breakfast is followed by a visit to Fuki-ji temple, immediately adjacent to our accommodation and for those that would like to join in the opportunity for a 30 minute Zazen meditation at the temple, lead by the local priest. We soak up the serene atmosphere here before transferring to Coton-mura, a lakeside park, where we begin our hike today. Our walk takes us past the dam holding back the lake, through forest and a quiet hamlet.

This is followed by a climb up and around the side of Yayama, an imposing tent-shaped mountain, to Choan-ji, at one time the most powerful temple in Kunisaki. A castle once dominated the area high above on Mt. Yayama, and the well-tended garden is renowned in the area for its flowers, which bloom throughout the year, as well as its autumn leaves.

After lunch, a quick visit to Tennen-ji temple. The last resident priest has long gone but the locals maintain the thatched main building that is built into the side of a high cliff.

We continue to the grounds of Kyu-Sento-ji, a once-powerful temple. Little now remains of the temple buildings but stone Buddha statues, impressive stone walls and hundreds of monks’ gravestones allude to the long-disappeared religious community. The gravestones include that of Ninmon, the legendary monk reputed to have brought Buddhism to Kunisaki over 1,200 years ago. We climb to Itsutsu-ji Fudo, a small temple structure set into the side of a giant rock outcrop.

On a clear day, from here we enjoy views across Kunisaki to the Seto Inland Sea and beyond to Honshu and Shikoku, respectively Japan’s first and fourth main islands.

We return to our accommodation at Fuki-ji for a second night.

MEALS INCLUDED TODAY: B, L, D

This morning we travel by vehicle a short distance through valleys at the heart of Kunisaki to visit Ota. We stroll through a delightful, quiet rural district on old trails, past farmhouses, kitchen gardens, paddy fields and through forests for an intimate exploration of rural life in modern Japan.

We then set off for Kitsuki, once the seat of Kunisaki’s daimyo baron. Now a quiet, elegant town, Kitsuki still retains an air of its feudal past, and is a pleasant place to enjoy lunch.

In the afternoon, we stroll through the streets of Kitsuki to a lovely and rare bukke-yashiki, a thatched-roofed building that was formerly the residence of a senior samurai aide to the daimyo.

A further journey brings us to Beppu. With more hot springs than anywhere else in Japan, it takes the crown as the nation’s top onsen destination. We explore the old quarter of Kannawa, where we also spend the night in a local inn. Not only does our accommodation have its own hot spring baths, but onsen literally surround us. Water vapour emanates from grilles in the streets, and above us from towering vents. Locals are to be seen throughout the day to-ing and fro-ing with towels in hand to the many public baths in the neighbourhood.

MEALS INCLUDED TODAY: B, L, D

Our stay in Kyushu ends after one last Japanese breakfast at our inn and we travel to Beppu Port, a short journey by taxi , to catch our ferry over to Shikoku, the next island destination on our itinerary.

The ferry ride is a scenic 3 hour trip beside the Sadamisaki Peninsula and across the Bungo Channel, and you can enjoy views of sea birds and the occasional dolphin enroute.

On arrival in Shikoku we travel to the main city of Ehime Prefecture- Matsuyama – and after dropping off our bags at our hotel we head out for an afternoon of walking, taking in the sights of the city.

Shikoku is home to the Shikoku 88 pilgrimage. This pilgrimage, is registered as an important Japanese cultural treasure that significantly represents the soul of both the nation and its people. We will visit temple number 51 on the pilgrimage route, a temple said to be built in honour of Kukai (Kobo Daishi) a celebrated Buddhist Monk. We will also finish our day with a soak in the famous Dogo Onsen complex, a public bath which boasts the title of the oldest onsen in Japan with a 3000 year history of hot spring bathing. This evening you are free to explore Matsuyama or relax at the hotel after our onsen soak.

MEALS INCLUDED TODAY: B

This morning we leave Matsuyama for a journey through the Setonaikai (Seto Inland Sea). For those that would like to experience the journey by bike, there is the opportunity to cycle part of the famous Shimanami Kaido cycle route. With a route linking islands with a number of suspension bridges over the sea, it features special lanes for cyclists and pedestrians and can be enjoyed by everyone from beginning cyclists to seasoned athletes. The optional biking is 43km and both E bikes and standard bikes are available for hire. For those that prefer not to bike, the island hopping can be done by bus.

We will all regroup at Setoda, for one last ferry journey to Onomichi and back to the mainland where our tour will end. You may wish to stay a night in Onomichi and relax after your bike ride, or journey onwards to other destinations in Japan. Nicky can help with suggestions for onward travel.

MEALS INCLUDED TODAY: B